How to Stop a Cat Scratching the Furniture (Without Punishing Them)

Scratching is not bad behavior. VCA Animal Hospitals describes it as normal cat behavior with real jobs: it marks territory with both visible scratches and scent from glands in the paws, it removes the old outer layer of the claws, and it is a full body stretch. Cats also scratch more when they feel anxious, because marking territory makes them feel secure.

So the goal is not to stop scratching. It is to move it somewhere you do not mind. Here is the approach vets and feline associations recommend.

1. Get a Post That Is Tall and Does Not Move

This is where most people go wrong. The short, carpeted posts sold everywhere are often too small for a full stretch and tip over the first time the cat leans in. A cat that gets wobbled once rarely comes back. The American Association of Feline Practitioners advises a sturdy post taller than your cat's body length, stable enough that it does not move or fall over.

2. Match the Angle They Already Like

Look at what your cat attacks now. Arm of the sofa or a door frame means they like vertical scratching. The rug or carpet on the stairs means horizontal. Offer that angle first. Many cats like both, so a horizontal cardboard scratcher next to a vertical post covers everyone.

3. Pick the Right Material

Sisal rope or woven sisal, cardboard, wood and rough fabric are the common favorites. Avoid posts covered in the same soft carpet as your floor, which can teach a cat that carpet is fair game. If your cat ignores one texture, try another before giving up.

4. Put the Post Where the Damage Is

Location matters more than the post itself. Place it right in front of the furniture your cat already scratches. Add another near where your cat sleeps, because cats like to stretch and scratch when they wake up. Once the cat uses the new post reliably, you can move it gradually, a few inches a day, to where you want it. Keep it in a room the family uses, not an empty corner.

5. Make the Furniture Less Fun

While the cat learns, cover the targeted spot temporarily. Double sided tape, a fitted throw or a sheet of plastic works, because most cats dislike sticky or slippery surfaces under their paws. Remove the cover once the habit has moved to the post.

6. Reward the Right Choice

When your cat uses the post, praise them or toss a treat. Rubbing a little catnip on it or dragging a wand toy across it gets curious cats to investigate. Never shout or spray water. Punishment makes cats anxious, and anxious cats scratch more, often when you are not looking.

7. Trim the Claws

Regular trims reduce the damage when accidents happen. Indoor cats, kittens and older cats usually need more frequent trims than outdoor cats. Ask your vet to show you how the first time. Soft nail caps glued over the claws are another option, and need replacing every four to six weeks.

What About Declawing?

Declawing is the amputation of the last bone of each toe. The American Association of Feline Practitioners strongly opposes it as an elective procedure, and it is banned in several countries and US cities and states. The steps above solve the problem for the vast majority of cats.

A Cat Tree for Multi-Cat Homes

If you have more than one cat, or a young cat with a lot of energy, a tall cat tree gives them scratching, climbing and a lookout spot in one piece. Anchor tall trees to the wall so they do not sway.

On a tight budget, a simple sisal post near the problem spot still beats doing nothing.

For the full comparison, see our guide to scratching posts and cat trees.

Questions People Ask

Sources

• VCA Animal Hospitals: Why Cats Scratch Furniture and How to Stop It
• AAFP: Claw Friendly Educational Toolkit (PDF)